Just a perfect day...

Sigh. I just got back to my cottage after having dinner and I took a few minutes to lay in the hammock and look up at the stars through the palm fronds. It is absolutely ridiculous how perfect day today was.

I got up pretty early this morning, Skyped with Darcy for a bit (we love Skype), and then Marcelo and I went to Carvelo Cafe, which is perched on a seawall overlooking the beach, to have our complimentary breakfast. We were a bit early, so we had our pick of tables at the edge of the veranda with an unobstructed view.

The breakfast was buffet-style like at our hotel in Pune, but with a fresh juice bar (orange, papaya, sweet lime, beetroot, pineapple, vanilla milkshake, etc.) and a station where cooks will make you omelettes, eggs, or dosas. The only dosas I've ever had were at Fresh by Juice for Life in Toronto, so I've never had the real thing. The real thing was crispy and thin with a yummy, savoury mixture of potatoes and lentils inside. It was to die for. After we polished those off, we went to the actual buffet, which had both Western (soft boiled eggs, sweet pastries, bacon, sausages, beans) and Indian items (parathas, porridges, idlis, sambar, etc.) in addition to a type of chicken stew (delicious) and fresh fruit (pineapple, watermelon, papaya, apples, pears). There was a do-it-yourself toast station that had little woven baskets available so you can carry your hot toast to your table without the steam getting trapped and making it soggy. We both tried the freshly squeezed pineapple and sweet lime juices. The sweet lime juice was the thing that has been missing from my life -- not too sweet, citrusy, and a bit creamy. Swoon. We lingered there for a long time.

After breakfast, we took a leisurely stroll around the grounds. What strikes us is how quiet it is even though the hotel is fully booked. As late as 9:30AM, we hardly saw anyone except for hotel staff. Walking anywhere in Pune is an act of will and determination, so this was such a treat. We looked at the fancier, much more expensive villas, but we agreed that we love ours the best. Our cluster of cottages reminds us of The Shire in Lord of the Rings.

After our walk, we sunscreened up and headed to the pool. There were a lot of howaito-san basking in the sun and turning into lobsters. We chose a lovely spot under large canvas umbrellas that offered shelter from both the sun and the bird poops. I went for a quick dip and then we literally lolled around for 4+ hours. Marcelo read his book and listened to his iPod. I did the same in addition to having a lengthy nap. When I woke up, we ordered some beers from the pool bar -- Kingfisher for Marcelo; Corona for me (I know, I know...I just felt like it). At about 2PM we surrended our chaises and went for lunch.

For lunch at Caravelo, we sat outisde again on the veranda, but a little further away from the edge due to the hot sun. We ordered an assortment of small snacky things, including fried calamari, vegetable pakoras, samosas, bruschetta with eggplant caviar and salsa, and chouris (Goan smoked sausage) sandwiches. I know that sounds like a lot of fried food, but we counterbalanced it with watermelon basil martinis. These martinis were amazing -- a perfect blend of flavours with no jarring notes of any kind (like this whole experience).

After lunch, we went back to our cottages to reapply sunscreen before checking out the beach. When I got to my place, I saw that my room had been cleaned and someone had folded my beach towels into swans and left them on my bed. Marcelo didn't get any swans. We've realized that for some reason I have the better room this time, but I think it's karmic retribution for the 'woman's grotto' in Mumbai. Marcelo's place is still lovely...he just doesn't get swans. Or a bathrobe. Or slippers. Or complimentary magazines. Or a French press coffee maker. But other than that, they're the same. Oh, and I have 4 more windows. :)

The hotel provides comfy chaises longues on a small section of the beach for lounging. Marcelo read his book and I went for a swim in the ocean. On this beach, there are tonnes of little businesses trying to get you to do stuff (jet ski, parasailing, massage) or buy stuff. These ventures have nothing to do with the hotel and it's a bit intrusive, but if you swim out far enough no one will follow you. You just need to worry about getting run over with a jet ski. While out there swimming I met a woman from Montana who has been living in Germany for the past 35 years and had lived in Mumbai for 4 years back in the 80's. She said that this is her 7th stay at the Taj Holiday Village and that her first stay was when the hotel opened in 1981. I guess back then the beach was completely pristine and there weren't any jet skis or restaurants at all. Even with all the activity, it is a lovely beach and the water is so warm. I must have stayed out there for an hour.

I thought I would run up to my room, take a shower, and make it back in time for the sunset. Marcelo says that I missed it by 2 minutes or so. That's it. I'm going to have to stay for another day. I wish. I did get to see the pretty pink sky though.

After freshening up, we went for a drink at the bar. They were playing some great trancy music. Marcelo had a cucumber sake martini and I had a passionfruit mango one. Like the watermelon ones earlier in the day, they were perfect and really refreshing.

We wanted to go back to the Thai place for dinner, but there was an enormous private party being held in and around that restaurant. So, we went to the Goan establishment called the Beach House. It was a beautiful, airy, open room. We ordered semolina-encrusted mussels, shrimp and pineapple salad, prawn peri peri, coconut curry with mushrooms and peas, naan, and steamed rice. I think I was still too full from lunch and the prawn reminded me of the ones at the Pride Hotel that I had immediately before I got sick, so I didn't end up eating much. But, we ordered a dessert anyways called Bebinca, a layered gelatinous nutmeg and molasses cake with vanilla ice cream. There's always room for B-E-B-I-N-C-A.

There are seriously not enough hours in the day. We finished dinner at about 10:45PM and I need to get to bed in order to get up early tomorrow and have the full experience before they drag us kicking and screaming to the airport. I wish I had more time. This place is absolutely wonderful. If any of you have a chance to come here, plan to stay at least a week at this hotel and no other. It's perfect. I took about 100 pictures today, so if you'd like to see them, please click here. Goodnight everyone.